Chef in Residence - Stephanie Zonis

Chef-in residence, Stephanie Zonis, and I met via the Internet shortly after we launched The Vanilla.COMpany. She included us in a holiday column as a great resource for vanilla products and gave us a thoughtful and appreciated boost. Now she's offered to share with us some of her favorite recipes that combine chocolate and vanilla.

Stephanie says, "I've been cooking and baking since before I can remember. My mother instructed me in the basics, then turned me loose in the kitchen, so I'm a mostly self-taught cook. Luckily, I've always loved to play with food! I've been developing my own recipes for at least seventeen years and, as I've always loved chocolate, it seemed the natural direction for me to follow. Chocolate can be paired with many other flavors, but over the years the flavor I have used more than any other is vanilla. I include it in almost all of my chocolate recipes as it brings a wonderful depth and fullness of taste to chocolate."

About the following recipe for Vanilla Bean Ice Cream with Hot Fudge Sauce, Stephanie says, "I love to eat almost anything chocolate, but I tell you there is no better base for a hot fudge sauce than a homemade vanilla bean ice cream. You'll need a candy thermometer, a fine strainer and a one-quart ice cream churn. My churn is an electric model Krups, which I've had for several years. It's a nuisance to freeze the cylinder 24 hours in advance, but this machine has never failed to work beautifully for me. The Frangelico or vodka is optional, but it will add little or no taste to the ice cream and it prevents the ice cream from freezing rock-hard.

"Please don't use supermarket chocolate for the fudge sauce. This is important, as the usual supermarket brands in the baking section simply don't have the perfectly smooth texture you'll want in your finished product. Sweet Celebrations, the King Arthur Flour Baking Catalogue, A Cook's Wares, and Chocosphere.com all sell excellent-quality chocolate. A jar of good hot fudge sauce makes a mighty welcome gift, and will be better than just about any you can buy. This sauce will keep for at least 10 days in the refrigerator."

Hot Fudge Sauce

Ingredients:

• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3 tablespoons light corn syrup
• 2 tablespoons water
• few grains of salt
• 4 ounces best-quality unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
• 1 to 1-1/2 ounces best-quality semisweet chocolate*
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, sliced into thin pieces
• 2 tablespoons sifted, unsweetened alkalized (Dutch processed) cocoa powder
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

* This is not a particularly sweet hot fudge sauce; the extra half-ounce of semisweet chocolate boosts the sweetness just a bit. Either quantity will work.

Instructions:

Combine the sugar, cream, corn syrup, water and salt in a 1 quart, heavy-bottomed, non-aluminum saucepan. Set aside.

In a medium heat-proof bowl, combine chocolates and butter. Place over simmering water on low heat (water should not touch bottom of bowl); stir often until almost melted. Remove from heat and hot water; dry bottom and sides of bowl. Stir until completely melted and smooth. Add cocoa powder; using a small whisk, whisk in briskly until most lumps are gone (a few small lumps are okay). Set aside near stovetop.

Place pot with sugar-cream mixture over low heat. Stir almost constantly until sugar is dissolved, scraping sides of pot occasionally with heat-proof rubber spatula. Increase heat to medium. Stir occasionally until mixture comes to a boil. Boil 6 minutes. The mixture should come to a rolling boil and may boil up to the top of the pan. Reduce heat slightly it if threatens to boil over. Stir occasionally (about once a minute); scrape sides of pan occasionally with heatproof rubber spatula. It may look like there is a layer of foam on top of the boiling mixture--this is okay. When the 6 minutes are up, remove from heat.

As soon as bubbling has stopped, add all of the melted chocolate mixture. Let stand for a few seconds, then whisk gently but thoroughly until chocolate is incorporated into sauce (this will take a minute or two). Be sure to scrape pan bottom and sides occasionally while whisking. Whisk in vanilla.

Cool briefly, then pour into storage container. Chill, covering tightly when cold. To reheat, place required amount of sauce (heat only as much sauce as you plan to use, as repeated reheating and re-chilling will make the sauce grainy) into heat-proof bowl, then place bowl above simmering water on low heat (water should not touch bottom of bowl). Stir often until melted, smooth and warm. (Despite the name, hot fudge sauce should never be truly hot when it's poured over ice cream.) Alternatively, place desired amount of sauce in microwaveable bowl. Microwave for brief intervals at 50% (medium) power, stirring well after each, until sauce is melted, smooth and warm.

Makes generous 2 cups

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Ingredients:

• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 cup whole milk
• 6 large egg yolks
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar (see note)
• 3 tablespoons nonfat dry milk powder
• Few grains of salt
• 1 vanilla bean
• 2 tablespoons Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur) or vodka

Optional for serving:

• Very lightly sweetened, real whipped cream

Instructions:

In small, heavy-bottomed, non-aluminum saucepan, combine cream and milk. Set aside briefly. Place egg yolks into a 2 quart, heavy-bottomed, non-aluminum saucepan; add a couple of tablespoons of the cream mixture and beat well with a fork to blend.

Reserve a couple of teaspoons of the sugar, then add the rest to the egg yolk mixture, along with the nonfat dry milk powder and salt. Beat well with fork to blend.

Cut off the tips of the vanilla bean and discard them; cut the bean itself into about 2 inch lengths. Using a small, very sharp knife, slit one side of each vanilla bean section lengthwise. Sprinkle the reserved granulated sugar onto the slit vanilla bean sections. Using the knife tip, scrape out as many of the tiny black seeds from each bean as you can (the sugar helps you to do this, but it's still a messy job--don't drive yourself too crazy over it). Scrape the vanilla bean-sugar mixture and the slit vanilla bean sections into the egg yolk mixture and stir in. Have ready a pan both larger and shallower than your 2 quart pot; fill this pan half-way with ice and cold water and place it near the stovetop.

Heat the remaining cream mixture over low heat until very hot, stirring often (alternatively, you can heat the cream mixture in the microwave); while you can skip heating this mixture and add it cold, heating it speeds up the cooking process. Switch the fork with which you've been stirring the egg yolk mixture for a large spoon. Very gradually, stirring the yolk mixture constantly, add all of the hot cream mixture.

Place yolk-cream mixture over medium heat. Stir constantly until the mixture registers 176 degrees F on a candy thermometer. Remove from heat; immediately stop the cooking by placing the 2 quart pot into the larger, shallower pan half-filled with ice and cold water. Stir the custard in the 2 quart pot until all of the ice in the larger pan is melted, then remove the 2 quart pot and carefully dry the bottom and sides. Pour the vanilla bean custard (still with the slit vanilla bean sections in it) into a heatproof container of about 1 quart capacity. Chill until very cold, at least 4 hours or overnight. To cover, place a piece of paper towel over the top of the container, then cover tightly with plastic wrap (the paper towel will absorb any condensation that might drip into the custard).

Shortly before you're ready to churn the ice cream, have ready the components of the ice cream machine and the Frangelico or vodka. Stir the cold vanilla bean custard well (many of the vanilla seeds will have sunk to the bottom). Strain the custard through a fine strainer into a pitcher or 1 quart capacity liquid measuring cup. It's fine for the tiny seeds to stay in the custard, but you want to strain out the vanilla bean sections, any lumps of egg yolk, etc.).

Churn the custard according to the manufacturer's instructions. When the custard is almost done, add the Frangelico or vodka, 1 tablespoon at a time, waiting until the first half is incorporated before adding the second. Follow manufacturer's directions for storing the now-soft ice cream. As with most homemade ice creams, I think this is best within about 3 days of churning.

Makes 1 generous quart of ice cream.

Serve generous amounts of the warmed hot fudge sauce over slightly softened portions of the vanilla ice cream. If you like, top with very lightly sweetened whipped cream.

Note: I tend to like non-chocolate desserts a bit on the sweeter side. While this recipe will work perfectly well using 2/3 cup granulated sugar, I like the small extra boost of sweetness, particularly as the hot fudge sauce isn't very sweet.

Chocolate-Vanilla Pudding

Cornstarch pudding is a very basic dessert. Here, chocolate and vanilla are combined for contrast of color and taste. You'll need four 7-ounce wineglasses. Divide the vanilla pudding evenly between wineglasses, then let stand or chill briefly while you make the chocolate pudding, which is then spooned or gently poured directly on top to make a second layer. If you don't like a "skin" on your pudding, place a piece of plastic wrap (pierced several times) directly on top of the pudding before chilling.

As with any recipe involving cornstarch, it is extremely important not to overheat or overbeat either mixture, once liquid has been added. Place over medium heat and stir constantly until pudding boils; boil and stir (do not beat) one minute, then remove from heat. Gently stir in butter (if used) and vanilla. I always strain these puddings for maximum smoothness. Note that the chocolate pudding seems more subject to lumping, so I stir it with a small whisk.

Vanilla Pudding

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons plus 1-1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• Pinch salt
• 1 egg yolk, from an egg graded "large"
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk, divided
• 1/2 cup light cream
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into pieces
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Instructions:

In a 1 quart, heavy-bottomed, non-reactive pot, combine sugar, cornstarch and salt. Mix thoroughly with a spoon, pressing out any lumps with back of spoon. In a small cup, beat egg yolk and 2 tablespoons milk with a fork. Add to cornstarch mixture; stir to mix thoroughly, pressing out as many lumps as possible. Heat remaining milk and cream until very hot, then gradually add hot liquid to cornstarch mixture, stirring constantly.

Place pot over medium heat. Stir constantly until mixture comes to a boil. (Just before boiling, the mixture will lump and look terrible. As it boils, if you keep stirring, it should thicken and smooth out.) Boil one minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Add butter and vanilla. Let stand for a minute, then stir gently. Strain through fine strainer into heat-proof container of at least 1-1/2 cup capacity (you can use the same strainer for the chocolate pudding--don't bother washing it). Divide evenly among wineglasses. Let stand at room temperature or chill while preparing chocolate pudding.

Chocolate Pudding

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons sifted or strained unsweetened Dutch process cocoa powder
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• Pinch salt
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk, divided
• 1/2 cup light cream
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Optional garnish:

• Lightly sweetened whipped cream
• Shaved or grated semisweet chocolate

Instructions:

In a 1 quart, heavy bottomed, non-reactive pot, combine sugar, cocoa powder, cornstarch and salt. With a small whisk, mix thoroughly to combine, getting out as many lumps as possible. In a small cup, combine egg yolk and 2 tablespoons milk and beat well with fork. Add to cornstarch mixture; stir in well with whisk (mixture will be thick). Heat remaining milk and cream until very hot, then gradually add hot liquid to cornstarch mixture, stirring constantly with whisk.

Place pot over medium heat. Prepare in the same way as the vanilla pudding. Strain through fine strainer into heatproof container of at least 1-1/2 cup capacity. This pudding will be much thicker than the vanilla pudding. Spoon or gently pour chocolate pudding on top of vanilla pudding, dividing evenly among wineglasses.

Chill pudding until set, at least two hours. Eat within 24 hours of making. If desired, garnish with lightly sweetened whipped cream and shaved semisweet chocolate just before serving.

Makes 4 servings

Dutch Baby

My mother made a variation of this baked pancake for Sunday morning breakfasts. There really isn't much to it, but it somehow manages to rise dramatically as it bakes. I have improved the original recipe by adding a little sugar and lemon zest--and, of course, vanilla!

You'll need a 12 inch diameter frying pan that must be able to withstand an oven temperature of at least 400 degrees (I prefer 425 degrees F, as it browns better but 400 degrees F will work). Like time itself, this pancake waits for no one. Remove it carefully from the oven, using pot holders (the pan will be very hot), then cut and serve it at once. If you prefer, you can skip the chocolate sauce and whipped cream, and simply sprinkle a bit of confectioners sugar over the top of the Dutch Baby, and/or serve it with some good-quality preserves.

Dutch Baby Pancake

Ingredients:

• 2 large eggs
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• Dash of salt
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1/2 cup flour
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into thin slices

Instructions:

Preheat oven to 400 or 425 degrees F (see recipe introduction). In medium bowl, combine eggs, sugar, lemon zest, vanilla, and salt. With fork, beat just until combined. Gradually beat in milk until mixture is blended.

All at once, add flour. With fork (or using a large whisk), beat until flour is incorporated. The batter will be thin and should contain a number of small lumps. Do not overbeat. Set aside briefly.

Place butter slices in a 12 inch diameter oven-proof frying pan. Place pan over medium heat. Melt butter, swirling pan so melted butter coats entire pan bottom. Allow melted butter to become very hot, swirling pan occasionally. Turn off heat.

All at once, pour batter into hot butter. Batter may not cover entire pan bottom as it will spread by itself during baking. Quickly place frying pan into preheated oven.

Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, checking only once or twice. It isn't necessary to turn the pan back-to-front halfway during baking time, as the finished pancake will be uneven in height and browning. The only thing you need to be careful about during baking is serious over-browning, especially along the outer edges of the pancake.

The pancake is done when it is puffy. The edges will rise high and be browner than the top or bottom; browning will likely be uneven on top of the pancake. Using pot holders, carefully remove from oven as the pan will be very hot. Cut and serve immediately, passing warm chocolate sauce and whipped cream.

Warm Chocolate Sauce

Ingredients:

• 4 ounces good-quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
• few grains of salt
• 1/2 cup heavy cream

Instructions:

If you have all of your ingredients prepared and together, you can prepare the sauce while the pancake bakes.

Combine finely chopped chocolate and salt in a small heat-proof bowl. In a small saucepan over low heat, heat heavy cream until very hot, stirring occasionally; remove from heat. Pour hot cream over chocolate. Let stand for a minute or two, then stir or whisk gently until smooth. (If necessary, place bowl over simmering water on low heat--water should not touch bottom of bowl--and stir frequently just until smooth. Remove from heat and hot water.)

This makes a generous 3/4 cup of sauce.