Chef in Residence
Pastry Chef Marcy Goldman
Vivacious Chef Marcy Goldman is a baker and pastry chef, baking consultant, and website maven. Her popular online baking magazine and baker's resource, www.betterbaking.com, is now in its sixth year. Check it out!
Marcy is the author of A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking (Doubleday 1998) and The Best of Betterbaking.com (Ten Speed Press and Random House Canada, 2002). She's also a contributor to the Washington Post and Los Angeles Times newspapers and Food and Wine, Eating Well, and Cooking Pleasures magazines. Marcy lives in Montreal, Canada, and provided a warm welcome to me and other IACP members at our annual conference, which was held in Montreal in April 2003.
As a baker and pastry chef, Marcy has reason to adore vanilla, but she confesses to wearing pure vanilla extract on her wrists, from time to time, as her "perfume of choice".
I asked Marcy to tell me more about why vanilla is such an important flavor for bakers. She shares the following comments with us:
"I think vanilla rounds out flavor in everything it touches. Cinnamon, almond, chocolate, orange - all take on a different dimension when you marry them with vanilla. I prefer single strength vanilla in cake baking but double up my vanilla or opt for double fold in baked items such as cookies or biscotti. Pancake batter in particular, is a great place to add a touch of vanilla, and even traditional items like a Sabbath challah, the ceremonial Jewish egg bread, is sumptuous and mellow with a few added drops of this most magical of all extracts. People tend to take vanilla for granted - and get stuck on a brand or type - but it is core. It can be as subtle or as emphatic as you need - providing you start with premium quality pure vanilla to begin with."
Marcy has provided some innovative and fresh twists to old standards - a special treat for all of us who are true vanillaphiles! Remember to visit her site for tips and ideas as well as more exceptional recipes.
ORANGE AND VANILLA BUTTER NUGGETS WITH
WHITE CHOCOLATE GLAZE
"These are thick, vanilla-laced, dense and sandy butter cookies. Divine on their own, an orange-and-vanilla scented, melted white chocolate coating makes them ambrosial. These would be equally divine with semi-sweet chocolate on top. Double strength vanilla would make these nuggets resound with pure vanilla flavor. Just make sure you use quality white chocolate to ensure even melting."
Ingredients:
1/2 cup (4 ounces) toasted, chopped almonds
zest of one orange, finely minced
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
1 egg
3 tablespoons orange juice
1-1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt 2 1/2 - 3 cups all-purpose flour
Instructions:
Stack a large baking sheet inside another one. Line the top sheet with parchment paper.
In a food processor, add the nuts, zest, butter and sugar, and pulse, then process to make a blended pasty mixture, about 20-30 seconds.
Add in egg, orange juice and vanilla, and blend briefly. Add in baking powder, salt and flour, and blend until dough holds together.
Remove from food processor and knead briefly on a lightly floured work surface.
Wrap and refrigerate 30-60 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/2 to
3/4 inch. Using a 1-1/4 inch round, serrated cookie cutter, cut into cookies.
Place an inch apart on prepared baking sheet.
Bake until just golden around the edges, 14-18 minutes.
Cool well and then coat with white chocolate glaze.
White Chocolate Orange Vanilla Glaze
Ingredients:
6 ounces white chocolate, melted and cooled
1 teaspoon orange oil or extract
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
zest of orange, fine threads for garnish
Instructions:
Heat the white chocolate on low setting in the microwave or in a bowl over simmering water, until just melted, stirring to make smooth. Stir in orange oil or extract, and vanilla.
Let cool a bit, then, using a spoon or small metal spatula, coat the top of each baked cookie with a thick coat of white chocolate. Garnish with an orange zest thread. Cool to set chocolate.
Makes about 30-48 small cookies.
BETTERBAKING.COM'S VANILLA SUGAR SCONES
Flecks of vanilla bean and vanilla extract both enhance these flakey scones. Rolling the scones on sugar, rather than flour, accounts for their flakey pastry. Kosher salt is more subtle tasting than sea salt and is recommended.
Ingredients:
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 ounces (12 tablespoons) very cold unsalted butter, cut into small chunks
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 vanilla bean, scraped
3/4 to 1 cup whipping cream
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Melted unsalted butter for brushing
Instructions:
Put an oven rack on a rung in the upper third of the oven. Heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Stack two baking sheets together and line the top sheet with parchment paper.
In a food processor, combine the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt.
Process about 10 seconds to blend dry ingredients.
Add the butter chunks on top and process in three consecutive intervals or 'shifts' for 6-8 seconds per shift. Mixture should be fine and grainy with no big chunks of butter sticking out.
Transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and add the egg, vanilla and 3/4 cup of the cream as well as the scrapings of the vanilla bean. Stir with a fork. Stir the mixture briskly but firmly about 10-14 times to bring it together somewhat, bringing the dough into the center of the bowl and turning the bowl as you do so. Then knead briefly with hands to pull mixture together a bit more, about 5-6 times, until you have a rough dough that holds together but is a touch ragged looking. This is when to add the additional 1/4 cup more cream, if necessary.
Sprinkle about 1/2 cup of sugar on a work surface.
Then, using your hands to continue mixing, turn out the dough onto the sugared work surface. Blend with your fingertips, kneading or squeezing dough gently but firmly to get a soft dough that holds together, pressing it gently in the sugar on the board in order to help knead the dough but have the sugar adhere at the same time. Once you have a mass, firmly knead the dough 6-8 times.
Let the dough rest 3-5 minutes.
Divide the dough in two and pat it into two discs, each about 1-inch thick and 6-8 inches in diameter. Cut the discs into four wedges.
Set the scones on the lined baking sheet, spacing them evenly. Brush them with melted butter.
Bake until the scones are nicely browned on top, 17 to 20 minutes. Cool on a rack until they can be handled easily (still warm but not hot to touch).
DOUBLE VANILLA AND DULCE DE LECHE BISCOTTI
"Rife with vanilla, these crisp, classic, biscotti also feature a caramel layer of dulce de leche. Dulce de leche is available in fine food stores, Latin markets, or at Clabber Girl.com who offers an additive-free dulce de leche. You can also simmer a can of condensed milk, using a double boiler, over low heat, for several hours until the milk turns a deep caramel color.
"Dulce de leche is the 'tiramisu' of the millennium and delicious when combined with vanilla. These biscotti would also be delightful without the dulce and simply accented with vanilla."
Ingredients:
1 14-ounce can prepared or homemade dulce de leche
1 cup unsalted butter
1-1/2 cups sugar
4 eggs
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
scrapings of two vanilla beans
1/2 cup ground pecans
3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt 2-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with two sheets each of parchment paper.
In a large mixer bowl, fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar. Add in eggs, vanilla and vanilla bean scrapings, and blend well. Fold in pecans, flour, salt and baking powder to make a very thick batter, adding in more flour as required to achieve this. Let batter stand a few minutes to firm up.
Pat or spoon out two portions of batter onto each baking sheet (about a quarter of the batter each).
Spread half of the dulce de leche on each of the two mounds of batter. Pat on remaining batter over each section, using wet hands to facilitate this. Some dulce de leche may leak out - that is fine - it will bake up as it should.
Bake until set, about 45-55 minutes. Remove from oven, reduce temperature to 325 degrees F and allow biscotti to cool 15 minutes. Cut into diagonal slices, about 1/2 inch thick. Bake again to dry out biscotti a bit more - about 10-20 minutes, depending on how crisp you like your cookies.
Makes 2-3 dozen biscotti.
WHITE CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA-SCENTED BREAD PUDDING
"Pure ambrosia: chunks of bread pulled together in a creamy batter of eggs, light cream, vanilla and cinnamon, studded with chunks of imported white chocolate. Raspberries or currants are optional but lovely. This recipe can be made one to two days before and refrigerated until needed. Good hot (oven or microwave) or cold, as a cheesecake-like dessert. If you prefer, you can use half milk and half cream. Serve with a dusting of confectioners sugar or pureed raspberries. Offer this diner style - in retro dessert cups, or trifle style - in wine glasses."
Ingredients:
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted 10 cups leftover challah, brioche or egg bread, in chunks or cubes 1-1/2 cups light cream 1 cup milk 1 cup half and half (light cream)
8 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 teaspoons baking powder
pinch salt
1 cup chopped white chocolate, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup currants or frozen raspberries
Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease a 9 x 13 inch pan or baking dish.
Melt butter and cool. Prepare the bread by tearing or cutting into cubes.
Place the bread cubes in a large mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, mix together the cream, milk, half and half, eggs, sugar, butter, vanilla, cinnamon, baking powder and salt. Pour mixture over bread cubes and let stand 10 minutes to absorb. Fold in white chocolate, currants or raspberries. Spoon into prepared pan and dust top with a little confectioners sugar and cinnamon.
Bake 30 - 45 minutes or just until pudding is set. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Offer whipped cream or crème anglaise on the side, if desired, or garnish each serving with cinnamon and confectioners sugar.
Serves 12-14
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